Waswo X. Waswo & Bangalore

Fort Cochin is a charming and lovely - a far cry from the main city Eranakulum, where Julia and I were based.

Once an obscure fishing village, it is now a popular little town. A mixture of old Portuguese, Dutch and British houses from these colonial periods line the streets as do loads of gorgeous little boutiques. The town really has a nice feel about it.

One of the highlights - besides having our first Western meal since we arrived (a salad - hoorah!), was stumbling upon the Kashi Arts Cafe. A photographer called Richard - working name Waswo X. Waswo, was exhibiting his sepia portraits which I found really moving. We had a chat with him about his approach to his subjects - i.e do they pose, does he build a relationship first? etc. One of the most intriguing photographs was of this old woman who stares out at the viewer with such intensity. Her face is covered in sun-lines, and each wrinkle seems to tell a story. Waso told us that he had spent 3 days with this woman - a chai maker in Udaipur. He observed her and spoke with her. She eventually agreed to let him photograph her. When you look at her eyes, it looks like she is kind of saying "I trust you" to him. It's wierd.

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Julia left yesterday. I had a little cry on the way to my shabby hotel round the corner to the airport. I am really going to miss her company...it was so special to start this journey with her. (julia if you ever get round to reading this, THANK YOU rockin' chic).

Lucky for me, I had Boney Joseph, my taxi driver to comfort me. He made sure that the hotel I had booked into alone was safe. He told the receptionist to make sure I was fed and had enough water. He also gave me his number in case of an emergency. Then at about 8pm he called to check if I was alright. I was fine. Although all HIS fussing made me a little nervous last night so I didn't sleep.
This morning I was up at 5.45 to be at the airport by 6am. My flight to Bangalore arrived this morning at 8.30am.
Another aweful auto-rickshaw ride to the train station where I left my bags in "left luggage". Godknows how the poor bag person will find it tonite. There were about 1000 bags in there when I left. Each bag marked with a chalk number. Hey, doesn't chalk rub out?

I have spent the day taking it easy. Read: shopping.
Yip, I broke down today and needed to do something familliar. I went into this awesome Indian craft store and bought the most beautiful silk kaftan - which I have promised myself I will wear. I also bought a pair of shiney blue trousers - they sound garish, but they are pretty cool. oh, and a pair of indian slippers. Big splash out and treat....but what the heck.

My train leaves for Hospet this evening at 10.30pm and I arrive tomorrow at 7am.