G G G G G GOAAAA

I left Hampi feeling "Shanti".
I must have looked "shanti" too becuase I had 3 locals passed me and say, "hey, you! you look shanti, na?"
The hawker at the bus stand actually gave me a free present - a box of Wrigley's - because I was so "Shanti".

Shanti means peace. I guess that's the affect Hampi had on me.
Shanti-me.

BUT there is nothing like an Indian bus ride to Shanti-the-hell-out of you.
I never dreamed a ride like that could be possible in this century.

I boarded the "luxury coach" half an hour later than scheduled. Of course the bus or the seats looked Nothing like the images the travel agent proudly showed me before I paid-up.

I had specifically requested a single recliner. I was not up for sleeping next to some stranger.

So the guy points to my seat for the next 10 hours. It's about 30cm - my bum just made it - and it is literally in the middle of everyone and everything. Yes, everyone else was sharing. I was the ONLY single person on the ONLY single seat in the middle of the bus. And I mean the MIDDLE.

The bus took off and everyone put their seats down. I tried to do the same but the seat kept bouncing up. Push down, bounce back, push down, bounce back. Kick down, punch, jump on it - it stays down. Good. I was ready for a sleep. I had prepared. The eye-mask, the ear plugs, ipod and clean sarong to sleep on. But as the bus took off, I realised that sleeping was not an option.

The roads are so bad and the bus is so old that you literally bounce off your seat at every bump. I am not kidding. I was laughing out loud most of the way...crying with laughter at the situation. It's hysterical. You can't get angry it's just so funny. At every bump the whole bus shouts "woaaaahhhhh" and people scramble back onto the "beds" they have fallen off. It's so funny.

10 hours of that and I finally arrived in Mapusa (pronounced "mapsa") with a sore ass. Actually since I've been here my hip bones have been bruised from sleeping on hard beds or on bouncy busses.

I met an Israeli guy who got out with me. He was really chilled out and taught me a lesson that I will carry with me for the rest of my trip. WAIT. Just get off the bus, sit down and WAIT. Don't rush. Get a cup of tea, maybe another, look around and HANG BACK.
In doing this, we met another woman - a wonderful Aussie called Jenni King (who I will meet up with for sure in Sydney).

This lesson in waiting does you two favours
1. It allows you to get your head together - something you really need to do in this country
2. It gives you bargaining power - It allows you to get the best price to your destination. Weird, I know, but this is India

Up to now I've been rushing off the bus/train and getting the first cab I can find. I have been ripped off.

That morning, instead of paying 400Rps to get to Anjuna (I didn't go to Arambol in the end) I spent 8Rps. And 400Rps is a night's accom, maybe a new top, or something. So yay!

Anjuna was nice. Not the best beach ever but nice. I was on the quiet side in a decent little room that was so cheap 200Rps, but nice. The other side is Trance City. In fact, Jenny and I (we hooked up for the day and nite before she head off) popped into a trance party and had a boogie and - er... left shortly. The music was good but the people - everyone was completely off their face and they all looked a little dodgy. I saw such young girls who looked so lost and it really made me sad. Not my vibe.

We spent most of the afternoon chilling and just observing. I saw this left over hippie guy, dressed in a loose - cotton G-string (BEAUTIFUL???!!!) walk up and down the beach gathering artifacts. His motions were slow and heavy. After gathering an object, he would put the bigger objects on the bottom and built up with the smaller objects. He spent about 2 hours doing this. It was interesting to watch.

I left Anjuna after a couple of days and am now in Panjim. A sweet little city in Goa that reminds me, for some reason, of Durban. I've been walking around today...found a nice wedding gift for C&P and C&P which I might get. Also tasted the most delicious "sweet meat" ever. It's this shortbread -like cake but its made with milk and it's moist. So good.

I leave for Delhi tomorrow. Really excited. Looking forward to meeting with Nic - whom I have not seen in about 12 years and don't really know! But I am keen for a good chat, and am so looking forward to hearing about his experience of LIVING in Delhi. Wow. Also look forward to a warm shower!