Dilli Delhi

Flying from Goa to Delhi was easier than any bus or train I have taken so far. The view from the air is is magnificent as the plane approaches Asia's largest city. In the dark night a carpet of twinkling lights stretch on for miles. It is really quite stunning.

And then cold.
That's the first thing I noticed when I got off the plane from warm Goa to freezing Delhi.

I arrived at the airport at 11pm and took a cab to GK Enclave 1, where Nic lives. Nic is my friend Libby's brother. He kindly offered to let me stay at his beautiful appartment for a few days. And it has been such a treat.

The apt is based in Delhi's "green belt" - read: scantly tree lined streets
It is on the top floor and has an large deck that gives you a good view of the bustling city below. Nic has tastefully decorated each room. In his lounge is a beautifully carved, thick wooden frame with nothing in it at the moment bar a couple of paragraphs/prose written by friends that have been cut out and stuck down. He is planning to fill the frame with pieces of people's writing over the next few years. A wonderful idea that will be so engaging once it gets some stuff into it. (I wonder what my contribution will be!)
Nic has the luxury of a house-helper called Raj. On my first morning in Delhi, I woke up to freshly cut fruit, warm toast and jam, a mug of delicious tea and the sound of Nic "Om-ing" after his Yoga lesson.

I took day 1 pretty easy. My mission was to find some warm clothing as I came so unprepared for winter. (erm, why I didn't believe that it really would be winter is a mystery - I suspect I had a severe case of denial). Fashion in Delhi ranges from really cheap cuts and fabrics to the most exclusive garments money can buy. I managed to get a simple black jumper after looking for about 4 hours. I guess me being fussy didn't help.

We went out for dinner that evening with some of Nics expat friends to a restaurant in the Defense Colony called Sagar. We ordered some delicious idly in curd for starters (fermented rice pies - so good) and then tucked into a veg Thali (still not as good as the Mango Tree in Hampi!).

Nic's friends are so interesting. Most of them are humanitarians with a strong cause! Listening to their stories makes me question what I do for a living. But as one of them very rightly pointed out, there is a need for a balance between the corporate world of business and humanitarian NGO's. Both can learn from one another (but do they?)....

After dinner we headed to a bar down the road from the restuarant. I am still not drinking alcohol - been 2 weeks today - so I just had another lime soda. The bar war really funky. A lounge rather than a bar. I was surprised to see that a glass of wine costs the same amount as it does in Londres. Actually Delhi is so much more expensive than anywhere else I have been by a longshot. To give you an idea, I was paying about 20 to 100 Rps for a main elsewhere. Mains here are above 150Rps.

This morning I woke up to tea in bed! I was quite surprised that Raj had brought it in. Living in London has made me forget the joys of house-help...reminds me of living in South Africa. Actually, Raj asked if I had some laundry. So I gave him some of my dirty clothes (those I didn't manage to handwash in a bucket in Goa). I felt so guilty when he told me that the washing machine is broken so he had to hand-wash all my stuff. But he was so willing to do it....I think Nic has done quite a lot for him, so I guess it works both ways. The two of them get on really well.

So I spent most of the day in Old Delhi. It is incredible. I started at the Red Fort, which is definately one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen. It gets its name from red stone 2.5km outer wall. The wall is about 16 meters high and is punctuated with islamic style turrets. The main entrance, Lahore Gate, opens onto a market called the Chatta Chowk. This then leads onto the many buildings within the walls of the fort. These are also magnificent. Some made of pearl, and precious stone (most of which no longer exists). It is fascinating.

As you exit the Lahore gate and walk forward you get onto the pandemonium which is the current Chatta Chowk market. It is insane. Picture a million people either on foot, in a tuk-tuk, on a bicycle rickshaw, in a car, on a horse, mixed with cows, horses, rams (!??!) on a maze of narrow roads lined with market stalls and delapitated buildings. It is overcrowded and BUSTLING...there is such an energy that wizzes through each little alley and road. You could get so lost in all of it. The stalls all sell incredible jewellry, silver, gems, fabrics, food, and of course a lot of tat. I managed to navigate through the chaos for a couple of hours - spent most of the time just watching the people live a "normal" day and then made my way to Karims, a popular restaurant amidst the maddness.

I sat down (alone) for a chicken curry and piping hot roti. Delicious. Of course I wasn't alone, as I never seem to be in this country. I had some young guys ask me the usual - which country, and do I find the food hot etc etc. They were local students visiting their favourite restuarant.
The food was good - but very oily!

After Karims I headed to the Jama Masjid (picture) which was completed in 1656. If you saw it, you would be amazed at how incredible this is. I was stunned at its beauty. It is the most famous mosque in India. And althought the courtyward holds 25,000 people, there is definately a sense of peace within the building. It feels calm.

After walking around Old Delhi for a bit longer I headed to the M Block market. Heaven for shopping! I have bought myself the most gorgeous mesh silver necklace and earings. Such a treat, but it was too beautiful to let go!

Nic and I are in tonite. We are taking it easy. Tomorrow nite we are going out with some friends of his visiting from SOuth Africa, and with some local expats. Should be good. I am going to meet up with Lebu - connected with her through Carol (thanks!). I look forward to a bit of a party!

Tired now, must go sleep off the city.