And so...

Success. They managed to raid the Dsei conference....
www.wombles.org.uk/article2007091249.php

Things people do in London

Some guys need a tank. Well that's what they told me on the 13 of August when I was down Brick Lane end.

It's for a good cause really. They need a tank to cause a stink.
The plan is to drive the tank into some arms conference going on in Londres.
That's right. That's called "causing a stink".
So. When you have a moment, if this is your thing, drop by Brick Lane.
They are asking passers by for cash, money, deneero, change. Whatever you can spare.

I believe tanks cost a lot of money. In the region of £500,000. That's a lot of money. So they might still be there. Forever?

Things to do in London

I live in another world

So the move to Herne Hill went well. It's a bit of a joke really to call our 'hood "Herne Hill" - yes, it has the lovely yummy mummy connotaions one would like associated with their property however, it really is Brixton.

And another world that is.
Brixton.
Try it out on a Saturday morning and you will know what I mean. It has the most electric atmosphere pumping through the crowded market streets. Loud music from the stalls competes for your attention...ladies having their hair braided, kids running around eating jerk patties - bright yellow, acrylic nails, dead meat, ganga, rasta, big tunes, do you know the lord?, jerk chicken, laughter, tears, double bass grinding through the back of that gold, blinging beemer. I LOVE IT. I love the edge.
But then again, I also love that I can walk a little further and I am in the peace and tranquility of the lovely Herne Hill.


Both GForce and I are finding our own spot of space a lot more luxurious than we'd ever imagined. It is insane.
We have 4 rooms between us and a garden - okay, okay, not 4 BEDrooms...but actual rooms that have walls that can separate us. It's insane. 4 rooms for the 2 of us? After 10 years of house-sharing this deluxe supremo.

happy days...

i fall in love

each time i walk through london i fall in love with the discoveries just waiting to be made.
i went for an explore at lunch today. i have walked up and down the streets of soho so many times but today it felt all new again.
popped into fernandez and wells on Lexington, delicious...then up to broadwick past the delicious wonders in Yautacha (I have to go there sometime) and round to berwick street. The market is fantastic. I am going to make a concerted effort to buy ALL fruit and veg from the sellers on Berwick street. I was overwhelmed by the range, and excellent quality....they even sell lemon grass and fresh herbs.

yes. I am in love. All over again.

Run for your life

So I have not done any exercise in a week and a bit.
I can feel it.
I am exhausted, maxed out, finished, drained, and energyless.

And this just makes me think about the people around me who don't move their bodies. Which is probably half the city.

People. It is time to MOVE.

Oh, get real.

This is apparently the "best purchase" someone ever made in their whole life.

I was scanning the gumtree.com looking at sofa's - second hand - on the off chance that I might find a 50's retro, restored and original beaut - possibly of Danish decent, please.

And I came across this!
"I consider this Edwardian set to be the best purchase I have ever made as they are the most elegant and confortable furniture in my lounge. Now you are probably asking yourself why they are on Gumtree and no longer in my lounge? Well they are being sold because we are remodernising and decided to sell them... gutted"

You have to laugh, right.

Ahem. Apology.

Just read over my last blog.
Feel I must apologise for my reference to the Indian Call Center.

On my way back from India a few months ago I watched a fascinating documentary on the ever boom call center industry in India.

Indeed, this explosion has opened the doors for many highly SKILLED Indians. Doctors, and other professional people are trading in their jobs to work at call centers. THe avg call center wage per year is approx $9000. This is a lot higher than the average Indian wage of $900. So working in a call center is highly desireable and the job is taken seriously.

The programme compared the work ethic of call center workers in countries like Australia and the UK to those in India. It's a completely different ball game. In the developed world, this type of job is typically filled by students, or those who are just passing through looking to make an extra buck. In India, this type of work is taken very seriously. It's a highly respectable profession and people work hard.

I think the most hitting part of the programme was watching how badly the Indian call center staff are treated. Usual comments like "I don't want to talk to an Indian, I want to talk to an English speaking person...." and "I want to speak to someone who understands me"....And they just take it. Swallow it down and continue to be so polite.

So back to my apology. I did not mean to be rude about the call center. I was frustrated by the situation - lost/stollen bag/wallet/phone/etc.

why'd they make it so hard.

what is it with customer service in this country?
I lose my phone, bag, life on saturday nite and do you think I can get stuff replaced? it took me 2 phone calls and 1 hour on the phone to barclays to cancel my cards. Oh and a lot of shitty phone music - you have to go through that as they pass you from department to department. To department. It took about an extra 10 minutes for all the call delays - a call to Mumbai (my guess) or Bangalore from Reading ain't gonna connect that well.

Try explain to someone in a call center in India that
1. you are in the middle of a field
2. you don't know your acc number and sort code off by heart
3. and no you don't have the 16 digit card number because the card was in THE BAG???!!!


I have just tried to claim insurance for my phone.
The phone I bought a year ago. And no, I don't have proof of purchase of that item. Is that not why I registered the phone with all the serial numbers etc when I bought it and insured it??????

Just an observation.
Surely there must be a way to right this?

Music that will make you cry

The Arcade Fire made me want to cry on Saturday night. They were just so good. So into what they were doing and really going for it. The instruments - violins, trumpet, harpsichord, organ....wow. It was absolutely amazing.

Bloc party also rocked....a lot! they were good.

RHCP - somewhat dissapointing. I think the boys are no longer boys and are starting to feel their age perhaps? seriously. I think some bands are best left in their prime.


Went into the Dance tent for a bit which was also great...
It was just good to jump around on a field, great music and D A N C E!**!**!*

Reading is not my festival of choice. ANd I will never go back. It is filled with 17-24 year olds all on a mission to get blind drunk and pass out...or score.
It was interesting just to observe from a distance and remember that I was once too awkward, gangly and silly.


We camped for 3 nites - me and the Old Friends. It actually worked out well. I guess we are all so comfortable we're OK with just mooching around.

Feel so alive now, I am going to take a hot shower and have a sleep!

Done and dusted

After much debate we (or rather, I) have decided that we (or I) are (am) going to pack our (my) bags and head to the dreaded Reading festival.

G just sent me this:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/6956629.stm


My friend C persuaded the "old friends" that this would be a good idea. We'll be working on Thurs + Fri afternoon (read: conducting market research questionnaires). And then the idea is that we have the rest of the fest to spend time together, hang out, reminisce, jump around to some music, and just take that time we never seem to have.

I am dreading it because I am not really up for being surrounded by spotty teens who will most likely be wasted. I am over that.

After writing the previous post I decided this would be a good idea. Sometimes its about making an effort. It's about getting out of your comfort zone and just doing it damnit. It's all to easy to say no and just miss out (I find the older I get the less I feel like being at THE party - I just don't care anymore).

Anyway.
I also have the feeling that this might be the last old friends event.

Or am I just hanging on?

Hey, it could ROCCCKKK. It really could. The line up looks OK and at least I am at the stage where I can be selective in what I see.
So I want to see
- Peter Bjorn and John
- Unkle
- Bloc party
- Smashing pumpkins and NIN (for old time's sake!)
- pull tiger tail (they were great at Fieldday)
- THe shins
- Arcade Fire
- RHCP

The rest I don't know....but could be an opportunity to discover something HOT!

Okay...getting a little excited now...

And then there's the good thing about letting go...

Lying in bed last night I struggled to sleep. I am still feeling rotten and bunged up.
It's funny how much real thinking one manages to achieve in bed when you're supposed to be sleeping. The mind flutters between that subconscious state that has all the answers you've been looking for...and suddenly there's a sense of clarity that washes over you.

I was just thinking about work (as always)...and came up with a few good ideas...(well, let's see how good they are today when I try them out of the workfolk)
And then I was thinking about the sadness I've been feeling at the "loss" of close friends.

They are still here. We still see eachother. Things have moved on though. It's not the same as it used to be. Even though I think we try it will never be the same. We live in the same city but still manage to miss out on the nuances that make a good friendship a real friendship.
And then I was thinking about the new people. The new people that start off being aquaintances...who you struggle to find time for ...but then something happens. THe new people start to appear more than the old people.
I suppose up till now I've been worried about this. Should you hold onto the past and continue to nuture what was once so important? Or do you adjust and move on and start to embrace what is new and exciting...

This is getting too deep.

Perhaps I should leave this for bedtime.

The best thing about a friend

Is how easily you slip into conversation.
How normal it feels and how you don't have to start from the beginning.

I met Sarah in San Francisco randomly 2 years ago. I had 10 days in the city and by the end of that time, that random arrangement made me a friend. Strangely we have managed to stay in contact for the past two years, so our weekend in Amsterdam felt natural and normal. Talking as if we had known eachother for years.

Highlights...
Tapas bar along canal
Delicious wine ....long chat
Walking around with someone who is OK to just walk around and soak up the energy of the city...
Exploring shops - not only clothes....
Having real girlie time
Watching the Holiday a second time around and actually enjoying it - in the company of a girlfriend, not a boyfriend (duh)
Mooching and eating and not caring
Delicious sushi dinner and cocktails
Not so delicious chi - chi dinner but at very cool Hackemar Brasserie....
More chatting
Not so good experience on Saturday evening/Sunday morning...but still feeling safe...

Got back on Sunday feelign rotten and tired. I am sick today...
Discovered an amazing drug called Contac which helps alleviate symptoms of colds...
Work people seem a little sympathetic which is kind of nice...

Need to decide if we are going to mission to Reading Fest. Not too sure I am up for it.

Not so dammaged after all/

Must be getting older.
sarah and I debated whether or not to get loco porcini last nite and opted for Trip -E. But have not taken it and probably won't Just not interested.
Were having fun.
x

Amsterdam

The interview yesterday went OK.
Except the guy - the big boss - was meant to meet me at 8.45 and he never pitched up. The people that I did interview with (about 4 people) seemed really concerned. His wife is pregnant. So perhaps she was giving birth? I really hope it was nothing serious. I might call to check it's all ok.

So yes, I met 4 people. One of the snr directors - a lovely woman who just seemed really personable. A younger guy who and then a Malay woman who told me her husband lives in Munich. I told her my fears of leaving G behind and she said it's hard, but definately do-able. I mean London is only an hour away right? well...actually when I add up the door to door trip it's around 5-6 hours. Not pretty.

Next stage (i know, ANOTHER stage???) is in a few weeks. Am given a case study which I have to present back to team. Nervous.

But I get the feeling it is hte right fit. I would be doing what I am familliar with...and it sounds like an exciting challenge.
Amazing client list and the projects sound varied....bring it on. Awesome office space right in the funky part of time...it's good.
But do I really want to move? again?

Walking around yesterday was pretty amazing. Sarah and I were just loving the higgledypiggldey road....and then the skinny houses almost toppling over. It's got a progressive feel about it. But it is SLOW. SLOW compared to my London.
MY london - I feel like I am beginning to know the city so well...the little turns and twists that you can only familiarise yourself with having spent a good lenght of time there.....

Not going to worry about anything yet, until the opportunity presents itself.
that is, if it does.

I am back.

It's been about 6 months since I dropped a line in this blog.
I am feeling inspired to write again.
I have found my voice and want to be heard damnit.

Number of reasons for this
- inspired by fellow bloggers and their tales
- not really that busy at work so have had enough headspace to think...and need to get this thinking down
- a lot going on...good to document this.
- something exciting is about to happen...well actually a couple of things
1. i am going to amsterdam tonite to meet with my friend Sarah ...I also have an interview lined up at Clear which I am totally nervous and excited about.
I want to take a lot of good pics this weekend. I want to get into that again....
2. graeme and I move into our new house in two weeks time. our OWN place. crikey I am scared but glad.

YAY! I AM BACK!!!!

Ankor

After letting go the bad vibes of the previous days trip we head out into Siem Riep bright and early.
It's a small city. And as expected it is very touristy. But not as tacky as it could be.

We have delicious breakfast at one of the many cute cafes and get chatting to an Aussie couple. They were kind enough to recommend their tuk tuk driver Mr. Hoar (pronounced whore). For $10 a day he'll take you to all the temples and around town, this is a good deal as some people have paid as much as $30 a day. So as soon as they've been dropped at the bus station Hoar comes back to pick us up and we're off.

Wow.
Angkor was the site of a series of capital cities of the Khmer Empire for much of the period from the 9thC to the 15thC. The ruins of these spectacular temples are found amidst forests and farmlands. There are over 1000 temples in the area. These range from nodescpript piles of bricks and rubble to the magnificent temples that really take you back in time. The most famous of these is the Angkor Wat. It is said to be the world's largest religious monument. You can believe this when you're standing, awestruck, infront of it. This temple is built to reflect the description of the universe according to Hindu mythology. A huge moat surrounds it and an outer wall after that with many long corridors inside it. A massive courtyard then contains 2 libraries and a long walkway take you to the heart of the temple, which you climb up in stages. The first level takes you to a place where large pools are and reliefs of women dancers decorate the wall. Up a level the courtyard is huge and contains the temple mount itself: a huge pyramid mountain that has steep steps you actually need to climb like a ladder 2.5 storeys up. From there you get a great view of the surrounding country but its not the end. The last courtyard is split into four by corridors and the centre is where the main idol would sit (then a vishnu or perhaps shiva but now a budha shrowded in orage and incence burning infront of him) and huge mountain shaped structure over him roughly 3-5 storeys high. This is Mt Meru centre of the universe and where god lives. It is truly amazing.

Martin and I climbed up and over the temple and spent a lot of time just walking around it in amazement. It still retains a lot of detailed statues and carvings on the walls. It is beautiful

After a couple of hours of exploring we moved onto Banyon Temple. This was probably my most favourite. It is known as the Temple of Faces. This temple is known as the temple of faces. It's a large structure on 3 levels or tiers with 49-59 towers each carved with a total or 4 faces on them. The corridors are tight and winding with lingams (hindu phallic and femine mixed idols) or budhas at intersections. Smaller and more confined than Angkor Watt, Banyon was seen as just as majestic due to it been covered in metal in its past and it's intricate carved reliefs on the walls tell the storey of battles against foreign invaders, the Chalms, as well as showing day-to-day activities like cock-fighting and circus acts.
The faces were so well carved. They stare at you from all directions in a very peaceful way

After Banyon onto Baphon.
This temple has suffered terribly from the elements. The french are in the process of restoring its 4 tiered pyramid that had a reclining buddha actually built into the side so that he covered one side of the second tier. When you see the restoration pictures this is fascinating and really a remarkable feat for architecture especially so long ago!

Ta Prohm was my second favourite temple.
The Jungle Temple... popular from the movie Tomb Raider. Yes this is where our good friend Angelina Jolie picked up her cambodian adopted son (yay...) and the temple itself was mostly reclaimed by the jungle over the years so that it is now covered in huge trees whose roots are basically what is holding the entire structure together. It is incredible. I was just in awe of the roots....they just seem to drip into the ground, twisting and turning. Beautiful!
Nobody chopped them down over the years b/c the wood of these trees is so soft that they're useless as building materials. We wanted a good place to see sunset but also to avoid the crowds. Luckily our tuk tuk driver's trainee and friend, Sam (born in cambodia became a refugee in the US and got a passport, came back after 20years got married and is trying to raise money to fly his 3 kids to the states...), knew of a good place.
Pre Ruk
we chilled for a while at a ruin nearby where we met a retired US couple who had been travelling for 4 years! They were very alternative and when they saw Martin's sore on his knee they insisted he start slapping on crushed garlic to cure the infection! They were very interesting to speakk to. They spoke to us about their belief that a change in diet and attitude can help you create a stronger immune system and defeat most diseases www.worldglobetrotters.com.

Sam and Hoar drove us to Pre Ruk so we could watch the sun set and we climbed the steep steps to where the other tourists were too - but many times less than anywhere else i'd been. the majority of us were quiet and it was pleasant. Mart and i meditated there facing west as the sun set and it was serene and relaxing.
That evening we got dropped by a market and ate at a place called the Dragon Soup. Martin ordered a cambodian dish with minced pork in prohac sauce with rice. I had something a bit blah.


The next day we got up at 5.15am and met Hoar and Sam outside the guesthouse where they then drove us to Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise. There were hoards of tourists and one particular funny group of japanese tourists who were doing aerobics while watching except that they were all over 50 and blatantly haven't done it before b/c they were stiff and out of time! lol!
We walked off some distance so that se couldn't see the aerobics class and watched the sun rise A-MAZE-ING! So beautiful and so worth getting up at that time.

Phnow Bakeng
This is the temple that most tourist buses use for sunset as it's on a large hill and faces west but we saw it directly after Angkor wat as it was recommended in the guide but we wanted to avoid crowds. We walked up the winding path and enjoyed the view from the top but compared to many of the other temples we'd seen and the stuff in india it was bit plain tho still exhilerating to try and climb down those sheer cliff-like stairs of the pyramid!

MARKET
THREE LITTLE GIRLS
We walked from one side to the other and i drank my first coconut on the other side when 3 little girls selling bracelets came and sat with us. one of them had a dodgy eye and when i took photos she saw them on the camera and started covering her eye. To make sure she didn't feel bad we had the others do it too and took photos. They were 6 years old. As we walked back to the tuk tuk they were harassing us for a dollar like literally the word "no" doesn't seem to exist for them. anyway it really got to me so so I gace them some a dollar each...and then burst into tears."they're only 6 years old and all they want is a fucking dollar!" ..."what's that to us? it's nothing! It's 50pence!"


At about 1730pm we left (before sunset) and Hoar drove us back to our hotel and agreed to pick us up for the airport the next morning (jesus was that really this morning?). We then showered b/c the dirt and dust sticks to your sweaty skin in the high humidity and heat. it's funny every time i wash my tan disappears!.... Then we walked to temple balcony restaurant and bumped into an austrian couple in their late 40/s early 50s who'd been on the bus with us and we'd kept bumping into over the course of our last two days! Christian and Phileese are involved in the film industry - her a writer/director and him an actor who was in austria's most successful film (Miller's Office - apparently...). We were going to the restaurant because it had live traditional cambodia dancers while you eat and so we watched the entertainment (i've just put a video up so i hope you enjoy it) and got back to the hotel about 11pm.

Bangkok
Today we caught the plane back to BKK. MArtin and I are sharing a room at Lamphutree - a cheap swish hotel....I leave for Aus tomorrow and feel I have LOTS to get through...shoppin!!!
Tonite we are hitting patpong. The TOWN...we're going to VERTIGO - the highest bar on earth... might see a sex show, and then going clubbing...
I hope i see something dirty...

Scammed, again.

It's tough getting out of bed at 5am Davis Hotel Styleee.
This bed is warm. It is comfortable. The sheets are crisp and clean and the pillows...ah the pillows. Everything a down pillow can be and then some. This is my last bit of luxury in SEAsia. It's back to living lo&cheap.

But it's a new day. And new days bring about new adventures. I am meeting Martin with his blue hair at Soi Ram Butri's 7Eleven. We are taking a 12 hour bus journey to Siem Riep, Cambodia to check out Ankor. I am excited.

We check out downstairs. They give me a breakfast box.
Thanks The Davis. You guys are so switched on.

I am back in the Kaoh San 'hood. Same as last time, the prozzies are holding up the lager louts. And the air smells of beer and stale cigarettes. It's not very pleasant but I don't care. I see Martin in the distance. We go into the 7Eleven. We need a caffeine fix.

The mini bus is on time. A first. We pack into it with about 7 other travellers. Martin and I have not seen each other in 4 weeks and we want to catch up. We chat away much to the irritation of the grumpy/sleepy guy in front who says something like "GRRR ay ay quiet, sleep please."
"Whatevah".

The mini bus is air-conned. It's comfy. After talking for about an hour the monotonous highway gets the better of me and I start to doze. The trip to the Cambodian border seems to go by quickly. And then it comes to a standstill.

We have stopped. At 11am. For lunch.
Some people are getting grumpy. Most of us want to move on. But of course we all order pad Thai or green curry and tuck in. The food is not too bad.
An hour clocks by. The bus driver "assistant" who is well dressed in a pressed shirt, slacks and smart polished shoes hands out visa forms.

There's a bit of a rumble between us travellers. "Hey, can't we get our own visa at the border"
The assistant in almost perfect English growls "yes, if you want to catch another bus. This way is quicker"
So of course we all take a form and dutifully fill it in. We all pay the ADDITIONAL 500 Bhat (about $18). We want to get there fast. We want to save time.

But time continues to rush past and we are going nowhere. We are still stopping for lunch. It's now been an hour and 15. People are getting antsty. One guy asks (the grumpy guy from the morning) "Hey, what's going on. You told us only an hour stop. We wanna go."

The assistant snaps.
"I don't like foreigners who not treating me good. You want to get to Cambodia you respect. Me no time for people like you"
The grumpy guy grumbles. We all look a little embarrassed for him. I feel guilty for the Thai assistant (sucker flaw number 1).

We hang around in the heat. The guys from the mini bus start a game of sh*t-head. A brilliant card game, with a rather awful name! Martin and I LOVE sh*t head. So we join. It's a good ice breaker and soon we are all chatting.

I meet Tamara. She is from Belgium. She is really cool. We chat about psychology (she's a psychologist) and a travelling. We really get on.

And suddenly the Thai assistant calls us to the bus. TWO HOURS LATER.

The bus is now a truck. We are all shoved into it like cattle.
(did no-one stop to think that something WEIRD was going on? Of course not. This is Asia)

We get to the border in 15 minutes
(So are you telling me we waited for TWO HOURS just to get to where we wanted to get to in 15 minutes. What the HELL IS GOING ON???)

The border post between Thailand and Cambodia has a weird feel about it. This might have something to do with the hate these two countries harbour for one another. There is a market on the Thai side. It sells everything from clam shells as snacks, clothes, food, electronics. But I cannot shake off this strange feeling. This feels like no-mans land.

The Thai assistant guides us into a queue. It is so hot and all of us are lugging our packs in this humid, heat. We stand around for a bit and finally enter an air conditioned hall where we are handed our passports which we then pass onto the border officials. Our passports are stamped and we're all in, except Martin.

At "lunch" when the Thai assistant was collecting our passes he missed Martin by mistake. Martin doesn't want to pay the extra 500Bhat. He wants to do the visa himself. But the Thai assistant is NOT having any of this. "You give me the money and we can all go quick otherwise you go alone." There is some tension in the air. It is weird. Martin hands over the money and the passport.

And then we wait. And wait and wait. For TWO MORE HOURS. God knows what we are waiting for. As we are fanning ourselves from the unbearable heat, waiting, I remember we need to get currency. Our smart assistant overhears me mention this to Martin.
"You must draw money in Thailand. No ATMS in Cambodia. And you get better exchange rate at the border"

I ask Martin how much he thinks we need.
The bus assistant answers
"How long you in Siem Riep for?"

3 days.

He says an amount equivalent to about 80GBP

Martin and I look at eachother. That is a LOT of money in Asia for 3 days.
We decided to draw less. A whole 10GBP less each. Big deal.

(why lord, did our warning bells not go off round about now?)

Panic. What if the queue starts to move and we miss the ATM and we miss the exchange rate that's so good? We decide we need to go back into Thailand to drawer or else we will be screwed and cashless. I go across. It takes a while. I have to go back through passport control into Thailand.

Eventually I get the cash
Martin takes it to exchange around the corner.

As he walks away into the distance something clicks. This doesn't feel right.
Siem Riep is a MAJOR tourist spot. Surely there'd be ATMS and money exchange?
Why is our assistant being so helpful?
What if the rate is not correct?
Is this a scam?

"No, of course not. Don't be ridiculous. This guy is trying to HELP us" I think to myself.

Martin comes back.
We exchanged at 70 to 1

We are then pushed into a mini van. In fact we squeeze in and the Japanese fellow who was on our am bus now has to SHARE a SEAT with a new traveller. A Cambodian called Bo.
Bo welcomes us to Cambodia. He tells us that he will assist us in getting accommodation when we arrive in Siem Riep. He seems really nice. Maybe a bit too nice?

We start driving. It is AWFUL.
The worst road we could possibly be on. It is a dirt road filled with potholes. It's hardly a "road". We are in the middle of nowhere bumping along at a VERY slow pace. How long will this take? Another SIX hours. The trip is getting longer than expected. People are angry and upset. My back is in agony from the road. This is so bad.

We have only been driving for an hour when the mini van pulls up to a restaurant.
Another stop.
But we don't want to stop.
We have no option.

Inside we scan the menu. It's not expensive for us - a dollar a meal, but in Cambodia that is a FORTUNE for a bowl of soup.
We order.

After everyone has eaten we all get back into the mini van. It is getting dark.
We continue to bump along. The road does not get better for the next 6 hours. It gets worse.

-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
Martin and I eventually arrived in Siem Riep that evening at 10pm. We were conned into taking one of Bo's rooms. It wasn't too bad of a deal.
We found out later that the exchange rate was 120 to 1. We had each lost $50 - a lot when you're budgeting! We also found out that the route we had taken is known as the "scam route". Apparently all that waiting at the border is to make sure most ignorant tourists change money to fill the pockets of the touts. The stop at the restaurant is a commission stop. And the additional 4 hours tagged onto the pothole road drive is there to make sure you are so exhausted by the time you arrive in Siem Riep you will take the first room offered.

The first thing we did once we'd checked in was go directly to an Internet cafe. Here we booked two return flights back to BKK. There was NO way I was going through a day of hell on earth again. I felt angry not only at the bastards that took us for a ride, but more so at myself for being so bloody stupid.

After booking the flights, we decided to take the day as a lesson and to let all that bad energy go.
We were both still excited about the next 3 days of Ankor.

Thai Wedding

Jan and Mike, the couple I met in India had kindly invited Graeme and me as well as Martin - my friend from India to their wedding in Bangkok on the 10th of March, 2007.

Graeme had checked us in at the very exclusive Davis hotel for our last night. This was conveniently just around the corner from the wedding and was quite amazing!
We arrived at the Imperial Queens Hotel in Sukhumvit for the Water Ceremony at 4.30pm.

It was great to see Mike and Jan again. They both seemed a little nervous and overwhelmed. Jan's parents are Thai, although she was born and raised in California. She can speak Thai but feels a little removed from the culture. Mike's parents are Chinese. He too was born and raised in California. Jan's parents wanted their only daughter to get married in the Thai tradition.

Martin arrived a little late. We were all in tears of laughter when he showed up with BLUE hair. He was dressed in a suit and flip flops. Ahhh the life of a backpacker eh. I was impressed that he made do with what he had. He did a great job! And made us laugh too! I am not sure the rest of the guests were that impressed!!

Both Mike and Jan looked gorgeous. Mike was wearing a tailor made suit that was beautiful. Jan was wearing a traditional Thai wedding dress made of cream coloured silk. In her hair she had beautiful gold ornaments.

The water ceremony is reserved only for close family and friends. We felt honoured to be invited. At the ceremony the couple, is lead to the front of a stage. They both wear wreaths which are connected to one another's with a string of tiny white flowers. Both kneel on the floor with their hands together as if they were praying. The wedding guests go up one by one and are handed a small ornamental jug filled with water. Each guest pours water over the hand of both the husband and wife and gives them a blessing. Mike and Jan were both in tears soon after this tradition began.
When I spoke with them at the reception they said it was really overwhelming to have the people closest to you shower you with only positive hopes, and wishes for the future. In the negative world we live in, it is not surprising that the two of them were in tears.

After the ceremony we all got to have professional photographs with the couple. We were then lead to the reception whilst the couple change into western wedding outfits.

The reception was incredible. A lavish feast laid on 4 large tables was put before us. The food was really good and interesting too. As this was a Thai wedding we got to sample the real deal! There was also some delicious western food served. Fabulous. The massive ballroom was decorated with red roses. In the center of the room stood a GIANT wedding cake of 6 tiers! This was surrounded by ice sculptures.

We ate well and sat at a table with some of Jan's Thai relatives. We got talking to an uncle of hers about Thai politics, India, China and the East. It was really interesting to have his view on things.

In the background a small orchestra played some old classics. This was lovely too.

Mike and Jan eventually joined the party looking lovely, albeit a little fraught! They'd been having more photographs taken of their special day! They come over to talk to us. Both of them felt a little stressed, but were pleased to see us which was really nice.

The reception is not like a western reception which is quite jovial. Its a little more serious. People sit at tables, eat and talk or they swan around the room picking at the delicious food. Once the bride and groom return, the family gets up on stage with them and speeches are given in Thai. We were then entertained by a Royal Thai opera singer. This was great!

After the singing, Jan and Mike were lead to the massive cake in the center of the room. Here they were handed a sword to cut through the vanilla cream and pieces of cake were dished out.

The wedding ended early - about 10pm. We were the last people left! Graeme and I walked back to our hotel and enjoyed our last bit of Bangkok together. We were both very sad to say goodbye to one another.

We both had to get up early the next morning. Graeme had an 8am flight to London. I had a 6am bus to Siem Riep, Cambodia.

Paradise

Graeme and I eventually managed to get a decent price for the ferry to Phi phi. No problemo. After scouting around Patpong for a while we were so glad to be leaving.

On the bus to the ferry we met an Israeli guy Dan Gur. He had been travelling though Aus and NZ for the past 7 months. His trip sounded incredible. He had gone alone, met some friends hired a car, got a tent and drove and drove and drove. Another thing to add to my never ending list. He was a nice guy. Both Graeme and I connected with him immediately.

The ferry trip was beautiful. Graeme was so pleased to see the sun and sea. I was so pleased just to have him there with me to be experiencing this.

We arrived at Phi Phi that afternoon and checked into the resort Graeme had booked - the Banyan Tree. It was wonderful. Such luxury compared to the dumpsters I have been staying in for the past few months (bar Maylyn Guest house in Vang Viene, Laos!).

The main bit of Phi Phi is pretty crowded, but it is still nice and relaxed. We dropped our stuff and went for a walk around. Still tired we had a bit of an early night. And slept so well!

We woke up the next morning to our American Breakfast offered by the hotel. Er. We then decided to climb to the middle of the Island. This took about 40 minutes in the heat, so we were pretty exhausted by the time we got up to the top. But it was so worth it. As you walk away from crowds you walk into a jungle! It was fun. At the top we decided to go down another way and we were both thrilled we did. We landed up on the other side of the mountain on a beach which I can only describe as very close to PARADISE. Everything we expected Thailand to be and more. Clear warm water, white sand, gentle lapping waves, palm trees, hammocks and only a handful of people. Perfect.

We spent the rest of the day there. Climbed rocks onto the next beach and just hung out. It was magnificent.

Other highlights on Phi Phi included:

- spending the day with Dan Gur and his mates Maytal, Haddass and ....forget his name! They were all Israeli so it was great to learn more about their culture and their travel experiences in Australia. They were a great group of people and both Graeme and I are desparate to get to Israel now! We went to "the Beach" - to be honest, in real life it's a crock of sh*t and you have to pay more money to walk on it! But we had fun.
- snorkeling for 5 minutes and getting stung by baby jelly fish
- having a drink on the beach at the reggae bar one evening with hardly anyone around.
- having a real cup of coffee at the funky phi phi coffee shop
- having access to a swimming pool at Banyan villa AND a cleaner to clean the room (OOOOOOOOOoooooooo)
-hanging out with Graeme and catching up

After saying goodbye to Phi Phi we had a short trip to Krabi's Rai Lei Beach. Graeme found us the most beautiful resort called Anyavee. Wow. We were in the lap of luxury....although true to Thai style it was a little incomplete. After checking in we realised our bathroom was still all concrete and not tiled. There was a clump of old, dried concrete stuck to the foor!!! Apparently all bathrooms at the resort are like this - we put it down to modern minimalism. The rooms were beautiful and tastefully decorate. And the highlight: the resort had an infinity pool lined with palm trees overlooking a zen-like stone garden and then the beach. wow. Definitely paradise found.

The town of Rai Lei is hidden amidst the thick foliage on the island. Great limestone cliffs tower over both the east and west side bays. These are really magnificent and a great if you are a climber (which er, neither of us are!). The two beaches each have their own feel about them. The west side is the day strip. Here a white sand beach runs along warm, deep blue water. This is also the beach to watch the most perfect beach sunset. In the evening when the sun goes down you can stroll along the beach and look at the interesting sun-like shapes created by tiny crabs in the sand (I was really excited by this). We also saw a little boy create a lovely abstract picture out of the tiny silver fish that had been left on the sand as the tide lowered. At sunset you can also sit on grass mats, sip on a coconut and watch Frisbee throwers, kids, people hanging out ...it's really great.

The east side is more the evening beach. Here funky, chilled out bars line the little path that runs along the water. At night this strip is buzzing in a gentle way - it's not too manic. Most play excellent music. You can get up for a bit of a boogie or just hang out. Perfect. On our first nite in Rai Lei we met two Aussie guys who bought us each a cocktail within 2 minutes of meeting them. We had a few games of pool together and then headed to one of more happening bars. What a fun night. Probably the first night since the start of my trip that I have had a proper ass-shakin'! It was great. I got picked up by a Thai lady who wanted to dance with me. It was fine for a bit until she started touching me...er....

Other highlights in Rai Lei include
- the day trip to the Hong Island which included 2 hours of kayaking, snorkeling, swimming, meeting a great German couple Franzi and YoYo
- hanging out at the pool for most of a day and feeling guilty. But then letting it go and just enjoying the time to chill out
- cocktails - the good ones and the not so good ones!
- Graeme getting a suit tailor made
- more swimming and beaching
- the little local Thai hut where we ate a couple of meals

It was magical. We both left feeling calm and happy. We had had such a great time on both Phi Phi and Rai Lei.