Omprakesh

Walking back to hotel Swastika on that balmy night in Jaisalmer I turned around when I heard someone called out "Medem, good music lounge, come and see, and check internet."
I hadn't updated my blog and wanted to do so, so I turned around to a young man who had called to me.

Omprakesh is 23 years old, although his papers tell us that he is 20 years old. He has a lean, strong build and is tall. His open face is surrounded by a scraggly haircut. His eyes are wide, giving away his positive energy. He points me to a computer and a chair "Take this one, its the fastest one medem."

I sit down and start rattling away.
I suddenly find I am humming away to a familiar tune. One great song follows another. I turn around "where did you get all this good music from? I like it"

"Oh medem I download a lot, a lot of music. Come looking"

He shows me files of music on not one, but on two of his computers. And his list is impressive. He has a music collection that would make you turn green. It is tasteful and eclectic.

We get chatting. He asks me "your country, your job" and gets really excited when I say I live in London.

"Oh medem, this is my BIG DREAM." I want to go to London so I can go to all the concerts. I love music. It is my passion and I want to travel so badly medem. I also love travel. But I want to see the bands live. I hear from a lot of tourists how amazing it is that side. And all the festivals... I want to go there. I really want to get out of India"

I am not sure how to respond to this. A lot of young people you talk to in India want to get out and travel. The reality is they can't. It is too expensive and only India's elite have the means.

We continue chatting and he tells me how he ran away from home.
"My parents wanted me to arrange marriage. I am not wanting that. So I came here to Jaisalmer to work Camel Safari. But I am not making enough money and now my parents want me to go home to get married. But all I want is to go travel. I want to see live music. There is no live music in Jaisalmer"

Omprakesh spends his days working the Jazz Lounge Internet cafe which has 3 very S L O W computers. It is painful going online and most tourists walk out after the first 10 minutes. However a lot of them stay. Omprakesh has an incredible energy about him that draws you in. You want to sit and talk to him. And he is constantly entertaining with new music.When he is not at the cafe, he takes up to 18 people on an overnight Camel Safari into the Thar dessert -- a very popular trip to do. He has done loads of these and really enjoys the opportunity to talk to foreigners.

Eventually I ask, "So Omprakesh, what's your plan?"

"Actually I need to ask you a favour. I want to become a tour group leader but I need to fill out the form -- you help me?"

Suspiciously I ask more "What do you mean?"

"I want to become a tour leader for Intrepid travel. I know a man who does this and he gets 250Rps a day and he gets to travel. A lot of money medem. And for me, travel is my other passion. I want to travel and I can get money . I would be good medem, at this - I work a lot with tourists and I could share what I am knowing of India with the people. And they would be very happy"

I agree to help him fill out his form.

Omprakesh's English is not fluent. But he tries to communicate.
When we log onto www.intrepidtravel.com, he cannot find the form because he cannot read. I eventually managed to sift through the site under "jobs" for the application form.

I tell him that I will not write his answers for him. He will dictate and I will type it out. He agrees.
The form starts with a few basic questions on health status, location, passport, ages. It then asks "If you are selected can you afford to pay the 250AUS$ fee?" Omprakesh says no. For him, this means 17,000 Rupees. A sum of money which he does not have access to.
We cannot fill out the rest of the form. He is denied.

"Okay, okay, we start again. I must find that money. But 17,000Rps...that is a lot of money. But let's just fill it in"

I spent the rest of the night - about 4 hours- helping him fill out the form. Explaining the questions and then listening to his answers. His answers are not fluent but they are good.And I make sense of them when I type them out onto this form. He manages to demonstrate a good understanding of what is required of a tour operator. There are however some basic questions that he doesn't understand. It is heartbreaking trying to explain them to him. All I can think of is "This kid has talent, he deserves a chance. But who is going to give it to him?"


Filling out that form most exhausting and draining task I have had to undertake since I arrived in India. He was so excited once we had finished the form. He was very grateful and kept inviting me for dinner. I declined. I was emotionally drained.

I left Omprakesh that evening with a knot in my stomach and a lump in my throat. The advantages and disadvantages between the two of us were as clear as day. I felt guilty for everything that has been handed to me on a silver platter - my education at top schools and university, money when I needed it, the support and love of my parents and friends and plenty of opportunity to travel. I felt guilty for everything I have ever complained about. Here was a young guy so eager and excited about the prospect of a simple job. So keen to start his life and to make something of it. This is a job he could undertake but would probably never have the opportunity to do so because of the barriers of circumstance.

This kid has talent.
He deserves a chance.
But who is going to give it to him?